FROSTBITE. I never truly understood the word until I got out of the warm bus and into the blustery cold winter of Gyeongju, South Korea. The temperature is in the minus and all I have on is a bomber jacket over a thin shirt and a single layer of jeggings.

Gyeongju is an hour’s bus ride north of Busan or a four-hour ride southeast of Seoul. It is widely known as a museum without walls because the entire city is populated by numerous historical structures, treasures and artefacts that aren’t confined in a museum box. Most of them date back to more than a thousand years. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage city, all that’s here are either in their original form, completely intact, or have been restored to their former glory.

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