Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe *

The Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe is a massive transnational UNESCO World Heritage property that spans 18 countries. In Belgium, this prestigious designation is held by the Sonian Forest (Forêt de Soignes / Zoniënwoud), a sprawling 5,000-hectare woodland that sits at the southeastern doorstep of Brussels.

The Sonian Forest is often called the “Beech Cathedral” because its ancient trees grow so tall and straight that their canopy resembles the vaulted ceiling of a Gothic church. While the entire forest is a protected “Natura 2000” site, only five specific integral forest reserves (including Joseph Zwaenepoel, Grippensdelle, and Ticton) are inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage. These core areas have been left entirely untouched for over a century, allowing a natural, “primeval” cycle of life, death, and regeneration to occur without human management.

Attraction

Despite being just 10 kilometers from the center of Brussels, the forest offers a profound sense of wildness that attracts thousands of international visitors:

The “Beech Cathedral” Aesthetic: The visual impact of the towering, centuries-old beech trees (some over 200 years old) is world-renowned.
Proximity to Urban Luxury: It is one of the few places where you can hike through a UNESCO-protected primeval forest in the morning and dine at a Michelin-starred restaurant in a capital city by evening.
The Bluebell Sea: In late April, parts of the forest (and the nearby Hallerbos) are carpeted in millions of wild bluebells, creating a surreal violet-blue landscape.

Sonian Forest (Xiquinho Silva, Flickr/CC BY 2.0).

Heritage

Belgium’s contribution to this serial site was inscribed in 2017 under Criterion (ix). The Sonian Forest is unique within the network as the only representative of the Atlantic Beech Forest region. It provides an indispensable record of how the European beech (Fagus sylvatica) successfully re-colonized the continent following the last Ice Age. Its status as a World Heritage site is a testament to its ecological integrity and its role as a “genetic reservoir” for beech and the hundreds of species of fungi and insects that depend on ancient dead wood.

Gateway

The City: Brussels is the perfect gateway, as the forest forms its southern border.
Airport: Brussels Airport (BRU) is a major international hub with direct flights worldwide.
Lodging: You can stay in the city center at hotels like the Steigenberger Wiltcher’s or choose properties directly on the forest edge, such as the Mix Brussels (Watermael-Boitsfort) or the Dolce by Wyndham La Hulpe.

When

Late April to May: To see the legendary bluebells and the fresh, bright green of the new beech leaves.
October to November: For the “Indian Summer,” when the forest turns into a glowing corridor of gold and amber.
Avoid Weekends: If you seek the silence of a “primeval” forest, visit on a weekday morning; weekends bring many local joggers and cyclists.

Consideration

Stay on the Path: In the UNESCO-protected reserves, it is strictly forbidden to leave the marked trails to protect the fragile soil and root systems.
No Foraging: Picking mushrooms, flowers, or even dead wood is illegal within the UNESCO zones.
Connectivity: While close to the city, the density of the canopy can interfere with GPS and mobile signals. Download offline maps before entering.
Gateways: Use the official “gateways” (like Groenendaal or Tervuren Park) which offer visitor centers, museums, and parking.

Resources

Official Sonian Forest Website: The best source for trail maps, UNESCO zone details, and conservation news.
UNESCO World Heritage Centre: For technical data on the 93 components of the beech forest network.
Visit Brussels: Helpful for planning your stay in the gateway city and finding transport to the forest.
European Beech Forests Portal: A panoramic view of how the Belgian forest fits into the wider European ecosystem.
Expedia – Brussels Travel: Use this to book your flight to BRU and find hotels near the Watermael-Boitsfort or Tervuren gateways.