Mathías Espinoza has a deeply crinkled brow as he squints at the vast ocean around the Galápagos Islands on a July morning. “Bien brava,” he murmurs softly, meaning, “rough.” He has looked out on the ocean many times over his years in the Galápagos Islands, but it never ceases to intrigue him.
Espinoza is inhaling the crisp morning air slowly and deliberately. The small speedboat that is tied to the dock right behind him batters noisily against the wooden palings with force. Shortly, this boat will take a handful of international divers out to a spot where they will descend to see the marine creature Espinoza knows better than any other guide: hammerhead sharks.
The ferocity of the ocean (and its inhabitants) isn’t concerning to Espinoza.