The Chilean city is one of the most striking urban spaces on the planet.
As in many hilly towns, I was told while walking around Valparaíso that the women of Valparaíso were famous for their great gams.
“It’s all the climbing,” the woman who was showing me around town said, with a broad smile and eyes sparkling just enough to let me know she was half kidding, but only half.
From what I could tell, the men’s weren’t bad, either.
I was in town for Halloween, so my sparkle-eyed host, a transplanted American who’d married a Chilean man, took me to a house party.
There were people sprinkled about the place, but what kitchens are to Canadian house parties, terraces are to the people of Valparaíso.