The Cambodia Angkor Air flight landed at Siem Reap airport from Manila around midnight. The airport, 7 km from the city, was small but well maintained. I availed the Visa-on-arrival facility and walked over to the immigration officer. This visa permits me to stay for only 15 days but I might like to stay longer. “Couldn’t you extend my visa to one month?” I said making the unmistakable sign that I was ready to pay whatever the so-called fee was. It was a quick bargain and both parties parted happily. Lightfooted, I bounced out of the airport to the tuk-tuk stand to head for my next destination, a hotel, to catch up on my sleep. The tuk-tuks are motorcycle-rickshaws, the main mode of transport in Cambodia.