Wines from the heart of Europe; David Williams; The Guardian


Switzerland – Lavaux, Vineyard Terraces

Gál Tibor Egri Bikavér Titi, Eger, Hungary 2015 (£8.99, Lidl) Remember Bull’s Blood? Though its history dates back to the 19th century, it came to prominence in the UK as Hungary’s contribution to an era when the supermarkets first took wine to the masses in the 1970s and 1980s – a robust, dry red blend to set alongside big-selling Bulgarian Cabernet Sauvignon and those early rays of “sunshine in a glass” from Australia and Chile. It’s not quite so easy to find these days, but when it does turn up – whether labeled in English or with the Hungarian “bikavér” – it’s as a much more refined and flavoursome beast. I loved the peppery strawberry and cherry fruitiness in Lidl’s refreshing, gently grippy new addition, while Bolyki Egri Bikaver 2015 (£15.95, Vinoteca) is deeper and darker, with black cherries and olives.

Kopfensteiner Blaufränkisch Eisenberg, Burgenland, Austria 2014 (£12.75,Oddbins)

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