Back in 2014 we made a crazy journey over from Poland into the at war Ukraine. Unsure what we might find we discovered a beautiful harsh country with vast contrasts between the emerging modern state and the weight of the soviet past. We vowed to return and to head to Kiev, the capital city everyone told us was so different to Lviv. They weren’t wrong! Here we found the real modern soul of Ukraine and an effortlessly cool capital city that had such a different vibe to old and dusty Lviv. We found a place that made us question what we had already seen of Ukraine and one that also took our hearts in a way we never expected!