There is much more to the western England town than the famous rock band who hailed from it.
LIVERPOOL, England—The last time I was in Liverpool, 40 years ago, the city was synonymous with the Beatles. But on a trip there this year, I decided to avoid the Fab Four commerce that has swelled since my last visit and helped the city shed some of its grittiness. For me, no Magical Mystery Tour, no walk through The Beatles Story museum nor ticketed entry to the boyhood homes of John and Paul. With a week to look around, I wanted to take in personal touchstones, see new places and maybe get a bowl of scouse, the meat stew that gives Liverpudlians their nickname: scousers.